{"id":62799,"date":"2010-11-03T22:51:34","date_gmt":"2010-11-03T15:51:34","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ekuatorial.com\/2010\/11\/the-sinking-of-bedono\/"},"modified":"2010-11-03T22:51:34","modified_gmt":"2010-11-03T22:51:34","slug":"the-sinking-of-bedono","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ekuatorial.com\/en\/2010\/11\/the-sinking-of-bedono\/","title":{"rendered":"The Sinking of Bedono"},"content":{"rendered":"

HIS vest bears an inkblot stain on\u00a0its pocket. Yet every time he leaves\u00a0the house for his round, Head of Bedono\u00a0Village Mualipin never forget to put the\u00a0tainted vest on top of his official uniform.\u00a0This vest means something \u2013 it sends\u00a0an important message.<\/p>\n

That afternoon, we stand at the end\u00a0of a damaged bridge which cut the access\u00a0that connect to the village hall of Bedono,\u00a0Sayung Sub District, Demak District,\u00a0Central Java, and the other two villages\u00a0in north east side. Here, the tainted vest\u00a0shows its importance.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhere should I sign?\u201d Mualipin says\u00a0to someone who is getting off from his\u00a0motorbike. That someone hands a transparent\u00a0folder. Inside, there is a memo.<\/p>\n

\"BEDONOPDF1\"<\/a><\/p>\n

After a moment, the head of village\u00a0reaches for red-handled official seal inside\u00a0his vest\u2019s pocket. His right hand carefully\u00a0positions the seal cap on the right place\u00a0while his left palm flattens and secures\u00a0the paper on top of the motorbike\u2019s back\u00a0seat.<\/p>\n

Voila! In seconds, administrative paper\u00a0work used to be done in the village\u00a0hall is now completed. Throughout the\u00a0afternoon in the end of October, the same\u00a0scene repeats three times. Mualipin conducts\u00a0his official function on the street\u00a0side.<\/p>\n

He cuts through Bedono\u2019s bureaucracy\u00a0red tapes by bringing the seal along with\u00a0him. With the help of his tainted vest, in\u00a0which he puts his official seal on its pocket,\u00a0he delivers his official duty Why? Here\u00a0is his story.<\/p>\n

Bedono village expands around 552\u00a0hectares. It used to be 750 hectares. Yet erosion cuts down the\u00a0coastlines for more than one kilometer.\u00a0The pole marking the village\u2019s tax zone is\u00a0now under seawater.<\/p>\n

\u201cThe street from Morosari Kampong\u00a0(where the village hall is located) to Timbulsloko\u00a0Kampong which lies in line\u00a0with the coastlines is also drowned. Two\u00a0kilometer stretch of that street is gone\u00a0because of the tide,\u201d Bedono Village Secretary\u00a0Aslor explains.<\/p>\n

\"BEDONOPDF2\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Carik, as he is affectionately called,\u00a0takes me for a motor ride along what is\u00a0left from this two meters high concrete\u00a0street of Morosari Kampong. Right on\u00a0the edge of the bridge, he turns off his\u00a0motor engine.<\/p>\n

For a couple of seconds, I am overwhelmed\u00a0by the powerful waves of seawater\u00a0through a crack Carik calls a bridge.\u00a0What used to be a bridge now looks like\u00a0a damaged river dam.<\/p>\n

The street was indeed a dam. It was\u00a0built along the coastal line to provide tenminute\u00a0access to Java\u2019s North coast road\u00a0to residences of Mondoliko and Bedono\u00a0Kampongs through the village hall. This\u00a0dam also functions to block the salted\u00a0water from pouring into the rice fields\u00a0behind.<\/p>\n

Yet the dam\/street is now damaged by\u00a0the strong waves. Its construction is far\u00a0too weak to stand against the sea waves\u00a0and the rising sea level in Java\u2019s North\u00a0coast road.\u00a0When elementary students arrived\u00a0to this part of the street on their way to\u00a0school, they had to ask their parents to\u00a0carry them across, because the water was\u00a0too high for them.<\/p>\n

Now, even when the tide is low, the\u00a0water reaches one-meter height in a\u00a0number of points. Residents of Mondoliko\u00a0and Bedono Kampong now no longer\u00a0have their short cuts. Their children\u00a0even have to move to another school.\u00a0\u201cThis creates troubles for the residences\u00a0who wish to do paper works at the\u00a0village hall. They have to take North coast\u00a0road for three kilometers, then travel for\u00a0another seven kilometers to here,\u201d says\u00a0Carik.<\/p>\n

\"BEDONOPDF3\"<\/a><\/p>\n

All rice fields are turned into milkfish\u00a0ponds. Still they cannot stand against\u00a0the water. Once the dam is completely\u00a0drowned, the water carries the milkfish\u00a0all away.<\/p>\n

Some put on some kind of net around\u00a0the ponds. The next problem is on maintenance.\u00a0To ensure no milkfish slips away\u00a0through the net, they have to inspect the\u00a0net on daily basis. \u201cJust a small tear and\u00a0the fish swim away. Crabs also create\u00a0problems as they create holes on the net,\u201d\u00a0says Carik.<\/p>\n

Bedono Village witnesses the disappearance\u00a0of fishponds. Based on Carik\u2019s\u00a0note, half of the village\u2019s rice field has\u00a0been transformed into fishponds. What\u00a0remains for residential areas is only 50-75\u00a0hectares.<\/p>\n

\u201cIn total, around 300 hectares of fish\u00a0ponds are now under water. On the east\u00a0side, ponds are protected with net yet nobody\u00a0maintains them. Basically, there is\u00a0no functioning fishpond here. Heck, even\u00a0houses are all drowned now.\u201d<\/p>\n

The Drowned Senik\u00a0and Tambaksari<\/strong><\/p>\n

In the afternoon, Bedono sky is full of\u00a0storks. The birds fly above the colony of\u00a0mangrove on the seaside.\u00a0I quickly grab my camera to take pictures\u00a0of the storks. Carik says that Senik\u00a0Kampong used to stand on the place\u00a0where the storks now stand.<\/p>\n

Senik drowned in 2007, following the\u00a0sinking of Tambaksari Kampong between\u00a01999-2000. Out of Bedono\u2019s seven kampongs,\u00a0two of them are now underwater.\u00a0The residences are relocated to another\u00a0kampong under the same district.<\/p>\n

Up until this year, there are five families\u00a0from a total of 67 families who insist\u00a0on staying in the sinking Tambaksari\u00a0Kampong. In Senik Kampong, seven out\u00a0of a total of 208 families also choose to\u00a0stay put in the stage houses built by Ministry\u00a0of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries.<\/p>\n

To reach Senik, we use a boat to go out\u00a0of the mouth of Sayung River, through a\u00a0flock of storks that are looking for small\u00a0fish to be eaten.\u00a0I see a number of plastic pipes sticking\u00a0from the seabed. These are remains of\u00a0the damaged wave breakers.<\/p>\n

On the North Sea side, the sacred\u00a0tomb of Mudzakir seems to be afloat in\u00a0the middle of the sea.\u00a0Our boat swings nearby the tomb,\u00a0away from the sea and through the mangrove.\u00a0We are soon lost in it.<\/p>\n

Inside this mangrove forest, the body\u00a0of the boat has to wiggle its way through\u00a0the overlapping roots. Our boat has to\u00a0take several U-turns to break free from\u00a0the forest.\u00a0Finally our boat arrives to what seems\u00a0to be a former river and concrete road of\u00a0Senik Kampong. Electricity poles stand\u00a0slanted in the middle of the water pond.<\/p>\n

Our boat approaches the middle of the\u00a0residential area that now resembles Roman\u00a0ruins.\u00a0In the sinking kampong, we met\u00a0Maulani, 45 years old.<\/p>\n

\"BEDONOPDF4\"<\/a><\/p>\n

Living in Bedono Style<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cI would like to ask for permission to\u00a0block the dam for the upcoming circumcision\u00a0ceremony,\u201d asks Maulani.\u00a0This all-around manual labor with Rp\u00a020 thousand per day income welcomes\u00a0the arrival of Mualipin. From behind the\u00a0ventilation, pairs of eyes peep at us.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhat kind of house it this?\u201d I ask.\u00a0Pasijah, 40 years old, wife of Maulani responds.\u00a0She appears from the door. Her\u00a0cheeks were sharp and pointy. \u201cWell, it is\u00a0as is!\u201d she laughs.<\/p>\n

Pasijah and her two children sit in the\u00a0dark throughout the afternoon on some\u00a0kind of stage foundation, which takes up\u00a0half of the house. Maulani today is busy\u00a0scratching his head, he tries to find ways\u00a0to block the damaged dam in front of his\u00a0house.<\/p>\n

This husband and wife have sent invitations\u00a0to their families all over the\u00a0district. Their son, Khoirun, 12 years old,\u00a0is about to be circumcised. At the same\u00a0time, their first son, Ikhwanudin, 22 years\u00a0old, a fisherman, is getting married.<\/p>\n

Maulani thinks that if he managed to\u00a0block the broken dam\/bridge with bamboos,\u00a0at least his guests would be able to\u00a0come across to their house. This family is\u00a0one of seven families from Senik Kampong\u00a0who decline the relocation offer. Because\u00a0their assets are drowned, the head\u00a0of this sub-district waived their taxes.<\/p>\n

Maulani used to be a successful\u00a0second-crops farmer. He had his own 3\u00a0hectares of land. He was born in Senik\u00a0and has been living in his house for 25\u00a0years.<\/p>\n

He is well aware of the rising tide.\u00a0\u201cThe last five years are the worse. My field\u00a0is completely drown,\u201d he says in thick Javanese\u00a0accent.<\/p>\n

As the water rises, he changes from\u00a0being a farmer to a fisherman. \u201cThat\u2019s\u00a0okay, I\u2019ll stay here. I just imagine that\u00a0we live in Kalimantan \u2013 living afloat on\u00a0houseboats.\u201d<\/p>\n

Maulani is not alone. One week in\u00a0Bedono, I meet other families who try to\u00a0remain afloat in the sea of poverty in the\u00a0sinking kampong.<\/p>\n

At the end of Bedono Kampong, two\u00a0kilometers from Senik Kampong, on the\u00a0next day, we meet Kasmadi. He chooses\u00a0to stay because he has no money to move\u00a0the poles of his house to the new location.\u00a0For the last four years, this 65 years\u00a0old man no longer works on now under\u00a0water his fishponds. He relies on the\u00a0money sent home by his son, a construction\u00a0worker who works in Jakarta.<\/p>\n

Kasmadi is not as well adjusted as\u00a0Maulani who changes his way from farming\u00a0to fisheries. His wife, 50 years old Sukati,\u00a0does not even know how to swim. Three o\u2019 clock in the morning the seawater\u00a0rises. For the last 30 years, he deals\u00a0with it by reassemble his bamboo house\u00a0on the higher ground. He has done this\u00a0three times already, each activity costs\u00a0him half a million rupiahs.<\/p>\n

On the last move in 2000, his house\u00a0was on the top of the previous embankment,\u00a0hidden behind the shrubs of the\u00a0mangrove and circled by the water. What\u00a0left is a narrow path connecting his house\u00a0with the rest of his neighbors in Bedono\u00a0Kampong.<\/p>\n

\u201cA couple of days ago, strong winds\u00a0blew all roof tile,\u201d he says.\u00a0According to Kasmadi, in the last\u00a0couple of months, strong sea wind often\u00a0blows. \u201cI ran as fast as I could, I was afraid\u00a0that some of those roof tile would fall on\u00a0top of my head,\u201d he says, shivered as he\u00a0remembers the experience.<\/p>\n

He could not ask his neighbors for\u00a0help. He didn\u2019t have any.\u00a0Has he had enough? Yes, indeed. If\u00a0he only had the money, Kasmadi would\u00a0instantly leave the premise. \u201cThe coming\u00a0waves scare the hell out of me. My 4.5\u00a0hectare fishpond is now under sea water.\u201d<\/p>\n

He has taken some measures to ensure\u00a0the safety of his family. His daughter\u00a0now lives with their relatives.\u00a0This man who experienced elementary\u00a0education during Dutch and Japanese\u00a0colonial came from the city of Demak.\u00a0He was tempted by Bedono\u2019s promise\u00a0for a better life, because in the 1970s\u00a0this was the best agriculture site for rice\u00a0and second crops. At that time, the north\u00a0coastal area was famous for its fertile\u00a0grounds.<\/p>\n

Just like his brothers, Kasmadi choose\u00a0to be a milkfish farmer in Bedono Kampong.\u00a0\u201cI was so happy, this area had rich\u00a0potentials,\u201d he says, his smile shows few\u00a0teeth left on his gum.<\/p>\n

Never on his mind he would find himself\u00a0facing this kind of life in his old age.\u00a0For a moment, Kasmadi is distracted.\u00a0He suddenly remembers Haji Ali and\u00a0eager to know what happens to his children?\u00a0Before Haji Ali died, he was the\u00a0richest milkfish farmer in the area as he\u00a0owned more than 20 hectares of land.\u00a0As the second generation of his family\u00a0rose, his fortune was all drown by the sea.\u00a0He inherited nothing to his children.<\/p>\n

Erosion and Climate Change<\/strong><\/p>\n

Seawater wipes everything in Bedono.\u00a0Yet the people are used to this kind of\u00a0life.\u00a0Director of Coast and Marine Affairs,\u00a0Ministry of Maritime Affairs and Fisheries\u00a0Subandono Diposaptono, came to this\u00a0area for the first time seven years ago. He\u00a0has predicted this.<\/p>\n

He says that global temperature increase\u00a0causes 1 milimeter rise of seawater\u00a0per year this decade. In Indonesia, particularly\u00a0in Semarang which is on the same\u00a0geographical area as Bedono, seawater\u00a0rises up relatively to 9.27 milimeter per\u00a0year, according to the National Coordinating\u00a0Agency for Mapping and Survey.<\/p>\n

It is a relative number because climate\u00a0change is not the only cause. It overlaps\u00a0with other problems such as abrasion and\u00a0landslide due to low land density.<\/p>\n

Abrasion is a very serious problem, because\u00a0erosion now reaches 547,49 hectare\u00a0in Semarang-Demak border(see graph).\u00a0This is caused by long shore sediment transport.\u00a0\u201cIt is triggered by the reclamation of\u00a0Tanjung Mas Port in Semarang, which is\u00a0carried out in oblivion to Bedono.\u201d<\/p>\n

The extended port has lower and even\u00a0stopped sediment supplies to Bedono\u00a0coastal area in its dynamic cycle.\u00a0Central Java coast risk analysis study\u00a0shows the scenario of Bedono ecosystem\u00a0extinction threat. Using geomorphology,\u00a0erosion, beach slope, the average wave\u00a0height and estimation of tide, Bedono Village\u00a0is the most vulnerable area in Central\u00a0Java (see graph). \u201cIt is even the most\u00a0vulnerable throughout Java North coast\u00a0road,\u201d he confirms.<\/p>\n

Climate change exposes Bedono to a\u00a0more massive threat. The average monthly\u00a0temperature in this area rises for 1.4 degree\u00a0per 100 years.<\/p>\n

\u201cWhen the temperature rises, heat\u00a0transfer from the air to seawater is triggered.\u00a0This flow of heat associates with\u00a0seawater level due to expansion.\u201d<\/p>\n

A permanent solution for Bedono is\u00a0mangrove belt. The radical solution, according\u00a0to Subandono, is an improvement\u00a0on the overall layout of the area with careful\u00a0consideration on vulnerability to climate\u00a0change.<\/p>\n

The last one is a long reach. Even\u00a0though this maritime country is prone to\u00a0seawater increase caused by global warming,\u00a0Indonesia is far behind in mapping its\u00a0own disaster risks.<\/p>\n

Is the government aware of the problem?\u00a0In the city of Semarang, I meet with\u00a0the Governor, Bibit Waluyo.\u00a0For Bedono and its rising tide, he has\u00a0no trick under his sleeves. \u201cDon\u2019t ask me for\u00a0solution. The problem comes from the sea.\u00a0Can anyone control the sea?\u201d he answers,\u00a0placing the scapegoat on the nature.<\/p>\n

Half an hour before, he explains the\u00a0importance of boosting the productivity\u00a0of agriculture and milkfish ponds.\u00a0For the sinking Bedono, he offers a\u00a0rather obsolete answer. \u201cNo problem, just\u00a0wait until the water subside.\u201d<\/p>\n

Bibit declines to explore the matters\u00a0thoroughly. Politics has determined the\u00a0unfortunate fate of Bedono.\u00a0Is Central Java ready for climate\u00a0change? \u201cOf course, it is God\u2019s will. We\u00a0are ready with a number of technical assistance,\u00a0from reinforcing irrigation, building\u00a0dams, choosing the best seeds and selecting\u00a0the best fertilizers. But when it is the\u00a0rise of the seawater, well, don\u2019t ask me for\u00a0answer. Ask God.\u201d\u00a0CLARA RONDONUWU<\/strong><\/p>\n

\"Screen<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

HIS vest bears an inkblot stain on\u00a0its pocket. Yet every time he leaves\u00a0the house for his round, Head of Bedono\u00a0Village Mualipin never forget to put the\u00a0tainted vest on top of his official uniform.\u00a0This vest means something \u2013 it sends\u00a0an important message. That afternoon, we stand at the end\u00a0of a damaged bridge which cut the access\u00a0that […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2037,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_publicize_message":"","jetpack_publicize_feature_enabled":true,"jetpack_social_post_already_shared":false,"jetpack_social_options":{"image_generator_settings":{"template":"highway","default_image_id":0,"font":"","enabled":false},"version":2}},"categories":[3914,4053,4003,4113],"tags":[4074],"partner":[],"coauthors":[],"class_list":["post-62799","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-climate-change","category-forests","category-kalimantan-en","category-sumatera-en","tag-climate-change-2-en"],"yoast_head":"\nThe Sinking of Bedono<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"HIS vest bears an inkblot stain on\u00a0its pocket. 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